How to Adjust Servos

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Weetbix
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How to Adjust Servos

by Weetbix » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:27 am

Servo Adjustment

One of my Servos was not sitting strait at 90° when the others were, so I have written this guide to show you how to do it.
This is what we used to do with our RC Car Servos to bring them into track so you didn’t have to play with the Tx Trims.
First remove the servo from where it is located and remove the Servo Horn.
Then you have to undo the 4 small screws in the bottom of the Servo and remove the top of the case, put the Servo Horn back onto the top gear #1.

Image

Next plug the servo back into the Rx and unplug the wires from your ESC to the Motor.
Centre all Sticks and Knobs on the Tx and turn it on then plug in Battery to power up the Rx, you will know if your sticks are not quite centre as your Servo will start to rotate the gears.

(Also see link in Jims post below on how to rotate Brass head under gear #1 to centre the pot underneath)

If the Servo horn is sitting at an angle other than 90° then you need to carefully leaver off gear #1 with a screwdriver then lift and rotate gear #2 one tooth at a time then replace gear #1 with the Servo Horn on it and see if it is now at 90° (use a Setsquare to help you, rotate the right way to move the Horn in the direction you need)

Image

If you still cannot get it to set correctly i.e. It will only sit just above or just below 90° then you need to move down to gear #3 as it has finer teeth to mesh so can allow finer adjustment.
Once you have it done you can power down the Rx and Tx, remove the Servo Horn - Replace the top and do up the screws and then screw back on the Servo Horn again and your done.

MOD EDIT (Friskle)<<< Pics re-upped to Heliguy Server - Now Visible :)
Last edited by Weetbix on Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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by grayone » Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:45 am

Oh so that's how its done :roll:

Now that is one heck of a lot cheaper than spending 80 pounds on a Hitch servo programing unit. This one is sticky material if any Mod is watching.

Graham
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by Weetbix » Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:07 am

the second pic doesn't quite look square, but I couldnt get a clear shot with the Setsquare in place so its a Photoshoped image LOL

but you get the idea of how it should look

would you have guessed :lol:
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by brazwewn » Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:51 am

I agree this is a good thing to do when building a heli. The closer to mechanical correctness the better. I am going to do this as soon as I get a chance. Good job!

Wes
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by Weetbix » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:09 pm

you can also rotate some of the gears around if you chip one tooth out, just look at how far they rotate to see if you can get away with it, I've had a tooth come off the #2 gear so just rotated it to the oposite side and it works fine as that gear only rotates around 1/3 of a turn each way
Ever been in an Iriquoi (Huey) and had to make someone spew inside their jumper so it dont hit the windscreen? MMMMM

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by fg1972 » Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:22 pm

very good idea, thanks for sharing
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by grayone » Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:28 pm

This is good stuff and should not be lost, my vote please make it a sticky, pretty please :D
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by chase_richard55 » Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:32 pm

I am going to do this on my tail servo right away. It is way off. Takes like 64 trim to get it to then middle then I have restricted throw to that side.

i figured you could do this. Thanks for the road map!
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by sbshaari » Sat Apr 26, 2008 5:24 am

Excellent info Weetbix, finally someone have the know how and thanks for sharing. :D . agreed brazwewn the closer to mechanical correctness the better. This post is worth to be a sticky, you gotmy vote grayone :D .
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Weetbix
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by Weetbix » Sat Apr 26, 2008 12:52 pm

grayone wrote:Oh so that's how its done :roll:

Now that is one heck of a lot cheaper than spending 80 pounds on a Hitch servo programing unit. This one is sticky material if any Mod is watching.

Graham


you could give me 40 pounds each time you use this technique if you like, thats almost $120 new zealand dollars and that'll go far on my chopper LOL :lol:
Ever been in an Iriquoi (Huey) and had to make someone spew inside their jumper so it dont hit the windscreen? MMMMM

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Additional Setup Info

by jh1947 » Sat Apr 26, 2008 10:57 pm

Hi
I'd like submit this follow-on post W/ the hope that it will extend the concepts put forward in Weetbix's original post.

Tnx
Jim

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHBF5f8H1rA[/youtube]

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Re: Additional Setup Info

by Weetbix » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:15 pm

[quote="jh1947"]Hi
I'd like submit this follow-on post W/ the hope that it will extend the concepts put forward in Weetbix's original post.

Tnx
Jim

its a shame he didnt go into resetting the gears aswell as that would have made it just right for what i was talking about, you are right that it does show how the movement works which will give people a better understanding. I have edited my post to mention it.
cheers for the link Jim
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by brazwewn » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:41 pm

I am a little confused. By watching the video it seems obvious that the placement of the gears is irrelavent. The only thing that is important is the pot position. As long as you have your trims to center and the motor is not spinning than all the gears can be moved to any position. I am not sure why the gears would need to be re-set.

Wes
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by shizack » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:54 pm

Wish I'd known that before all my stuff was nicely in place on the heli. Great info for the next rebuild though.

Side note - Jim - is your backyard landscape still available? Your file host says it's been deleted.
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by Weetbix » Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:29 am

brazwewn wrote:I am a little confused. By watching the video it seems obvious that the placement of the gears is irrelavent. The only thing that is important is the pot position. As long as you have your trims to center and the motor is not spinning than all the gears can be moved to any position. I am not sure why the gears would need to be re-set.

Wes


the pot is only where the centre of movement is, if you havnt retrimed the gears it is irrelivant and you will still need to use tracking to get it strait. (if the pot is strait and you put the servo horn back on at an angle you havnt fixed the problem)
if you use a combination of having the pot and gears strait then the servo is set to dead neutral and you will have full movement each way.
if the pot and gears are nuetral you also have less power consumption when the servo has not been moved.
Ever been in an Iriquoi (Huey) and had to make someone spew inside their jumper so it dont hit the windscreen? MMMMM

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by jh1947 » Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:26 am

brazwewn wrote:I am a little confused. By watching the video it seems obvious that the placement of the gears is irrelavent. The only thing that is important is the pot position. As long as you have your trims to center and the motor is not spinning than all the gears can be moved to any position. I am not sure why the gears would need to be re-set.
Wes


Wes great question.
I probably was misleading, because it wasn’t my intention to reinvent Weetbix’s original post, but to complement it. IMO, his post showed/told all one needed know to ensure that the final gear (W/ servo arm) could be installed on the shaft at the exact point needed (by rotating intermediate gears so that the teeth of the final two gears align correctly). The video’s intent was just to explain the role that the brass shaft played in detecting & controlling the position of this gear (and how sensitive it is).
You might say I got lucky in the video, once I got my fingers out of the way, and could see what I was doing, the gear dropped into place. (Sometimes even a blind pig finds an acorn)

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