HBFP V2

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Buckleheid
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HBFP V2

by Buckleheid » Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:19 pm

probably been asked already but i cant find it in the forum
what is the red led on the 4 in 1 for,not the one that blinks and then goes green for the gyro,but the one on the other side of the 4in1,ive noticed mines on all the time the battery is on,is this normal?

excuse my ignorance

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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:25 pm

Hi There

Red led is nothing to worry about. Mine stays on also. Something to do with transmitter giving adequate signal (or something along those lines as I understand it).

I'm sure someone else will give a better explanation, but like I said, it is nothing to worry about.

And don't worry about sounding ignorant. As anyone here will tell you, there is no such thing as a stupid question. Ask away :)

Regards

Bob
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Buckleheid
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by Buckleheid » Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:16 pm

cheers bud,ive been tryin to setup my heli as shown in the forums,its quite complicated,ive got my blades balanced and the swash plate level,the servos are operating the right ways,but i need to suss out the proportion and gain settings,also is it better to slightly pitch up the flybar paddles to aid hovering in the beginning,what is the correct pitch with the paddles,3-5 degrees ?
ive sussed out the CoG with battery,canopy and training gear,just need to start the basics,skidding with the training gear just kissing the ground.
ive been using a sim as well to get used to the movements,its gonna take a while,but will be worth it in the end.

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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Fri Jun 10, 2011 6:35 pm

Sounds like you are getting the hang of setting up your bee 8)

As far as pitching up the paddles, this is an individuals choice. I personally have stuck with mine level. That way, I won't come to rely on them. If, however, you struggle to hover, give it a try. A couple of degrees should do.

I never did the whole skimming on the ground thing, only because the 'ground' I had was not suitable (training gear can catch on any imperfections if you are not careful). A good starting point is tail in hover (with lots of space and no wind). If you feel nervous, keep it low, but bear in mind that below about 2-3 feet, the down draft from the blades will cause the ground efffect which will make hovering more difficult. Just remember to use a little right cyclic to counter the natural tendancy to pull left on takeoff.

My first few hovers were literally seconds if that, then one day it clicked and now I can take off and land and hover tail in confidently. I still crash though and so will you. Take it as part of the learning curve and you will be fine.

Another final point. Anyone here will tell you that stock blades are rubbish. At the very least, you should try to get hold of something like the extreme fibre filled blades if funds allow. These make hovering much more stable, give better lift for less power and also hold their shape. They are only a couple of pounds more than the stock ones but are worth it.

Thats enough waffle. Enjoy.

Bob
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dondecap
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by dondecap » Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:06 pm

hi guys,
the proportion setting is to divid the power between the two motors.. so if the tail starts to spin then give more proportion ajustment. the gain is the gyro bset ti have the propotion set so the tail 'more or less stays put [you need to unplug the battery after adjusting the propotion
]then put the gyro to nearly full up and the tail should 'wag like a doges tail' then slowly lower a bit at a time until the wag stops. then play with the proportion to finaly set the tail..........with trims centered ......except the throttle trim ...this should 'always' be right down.
regards
don
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Buckleheid
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by Buckleheid » Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:55 am

dondecap wrote:hi guys,
the proportion setting is to divid the power between the two motors.. so if the tail starts to spin then give more proportion ajustment. the gain is the gyro bset ti have the propotion set so the tail 'more or less stays put [you need to unplug the battery after adjusting the propotion
]then put the gyro to nearly full up and the tail should 'wag like a doges tail' then slowly lower a bit at a time until the wag stops. then play with the proportion to finaly set the tail..........with trims centered ......except the throttle trim ...this should 'always' be right down.
regards
don

nice tip,that explains a lot more to me,i was adjusting the gyro but without switching the batt off,will try that next and pray for a windless day,soo windy up here lately,too windy for a heli and not enough to let me go out with my traction kites and buggy

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Buckleheid
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by Buckleheid » Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:41 pm

just had a couple of VERY brief hovers in some semblance of control,scary stuff,i took off the training skids and decided to just go for it,throttled up slowly and i know the point at which the heli will lift so gave it a tad more,and up she went,then trying to counteract the movement of travel with some success then throttle down again,so really a hop more than a hover i spose.
i need to practice more outside but its nerve wracking,ive had a few ouch moments but the bee has been fine,ive not got much off the ground 2 feet maybe but i can see that the heli sits better without the rotorwash affect,i need at least 10 batterys now so i can keep going lol
however rome wasnt built in a day but i do see light at the end of the tunnel,i was thinking that i would never get her airborne,woohoo onwards and upwards.

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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:27 pm

Well done. :D

You will find more and more of these 'breakthrough' moments and nothing beats them 8)

Don't be too keen to take off the training gear until you can takeoff, hover and land fairly well (unless you feel confident..... and rich :wink: ).

I know what you mean about the batteries. They are high on my wish list (I only have 3)

Regards

Bob
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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:27 pm

stupid browser........ :x
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Buckleheid
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by Buckleheid » Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:46 pm

im not rich thats for sure,last hover attempt i broke a ring like push rod,so thats not gonna break the bank (phew),but i need more open space rather than my back garden,might try local park on very little wind day,or some time after work in my w/shop,still its all progress and HB parts are cheap and plentiful ;)
HoneyBee FP V2 bog standard

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Scorpio
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by Scorpio » Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:29 pm

phenoxyethanol wrote:Another final point. Anyone here will tell you that stock blades are rubbish. At the very least, you should try to get hold of something like the extreme fibre filled blades if funds allow. These make hovering much more stable, give better lift for less power and also hold their shape. They are only a couple of pounds more than the stock ones but are worth it.
The stock blades are not ideal, but beware of you decide to use the "Xtreme" blades. They are solid (good) but it does mean they are heavy and if you crash, expect other parts to be damaged.

I've just found out 3 people have had problems with Xtreme blades on Kings - not sure if HBFP would be different?
http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/king3-errm-oops-t62570.html

The other option would be carbon or fake-carbon, stiffer than stock blades but not as heavy as Extreme.
Only problem is they will shatter if you crash :?
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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:20 am

Scorpio wrote:
phenoxyethanol wrote:Another final point. Anyone here will tell you that stock blades are rubbish. At the very least, you should try to get hold of something like the extreme fibre filled blades if funds allow. These make hovering much more stable, give better lift for less power and also hold their shape. They are only a couple of pounds more than the stock ones but are worth it.
The stock blades are not ideal, but beware of you decide to use the "Xtreme" blades. They are solid (good) but it does mean they are heavy and if you crash, expect other parts to be damaged.

I've just found out 3 people have had problems with Xtreme blades on Kings - not sure if HBFP would be different?
http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/king3-errm-oops-t62570.html

The other option would be carbon or fake-carbon, stiffer than stock blades but not as heavy as Extreme.
Only problem is they will shatter if you crash :?


I also read the above post on the King 3 blade problems. It seems the problem is the blade breaking at the root when spun up. As yet on me bee, I have only had one break at the root and that was during a quite heavy landing.

There may be even better alternatives, but as they are only a couple of pounds more than the stock ones, they should hopefully still be cost effective.

Everyone has their own preferences. It would be a bit boring if we were all the same. :wink:

Bob
Blade MCPX

HK450Pro TT - Working on it....

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Buckleheid
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by Buckleheid » Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:51 am

cheers for the info,its these type o blades i was thinking of

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT
HoneyBee FP V2 bog standard

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phenoxyethanol
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by phenoxyethanol » Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:30 pm

The listing you are looking at is for the superblades EZ. Although superblades are good, everyone who has had them seem to go for the XP version as these are an all round better blade. EZ are fine for hover, but not much else (as far as I understand it), but even the XP blades will be much better than the stock blades.

That said, the choice is yours. If you do get them, post some feedback on them.

Regards

Bob
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HK450Pro TT - Working on it....

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dondecap
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by dondecap » Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:20 pm

hi guys,
comparing honey bee blades to king blades is not any guide really,
as the king uses a much higher head speed and so the blades are under a lot more strain and hit anything harder doing far more damage all round,
regards
don
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